Hueco so far…

One of the best aspects of being on the (climbing) road is the amazing scenery! Hueco’s desert landscape is truly stunning and Mig and I both are inspired every day to take pics. Another fabulous part of being on the road is the people you meet. Climbing destinations like Hueco attract climbers from all over the world and from all walks of life and we’ve been fortunate to meet a handful of awesome folks already. We’ve also noticed that there is a special community here – people who come back year after year as much for the climbing as for the extended family. That said, though it’s our first time here, we have felt quite welcome. Even having a baby hasn’t scared people away (as far as we know anyway)! In fact, we’ve met two other traveling climber families, which is really nice because (a) it’s a clear indication of the growth of the sport, and (b) it confirms for us that we’re not insane to bring our daughter on the road (or at least we’re not alone in our insanity)!

The Hueco Tanks park from the Ranch.

So we’ve decided not to camp on this leg of the journey after all and rather split our time between The Rock Ranch and The Hueco Hacienda. Apparently the Ranch can get pretty rowdy during peak season, which wouldn’t have been super good for us, but it was perfectly chill when we were there. Not only did we enjoy hangin’ with the employees and other residents there, we were treated to a quint-essential Texan brisket, dutifully watched over by Brett (a.k.a. Mogli) as it smoked for 14 hours. It was fantastic! The owners of the Hacienda are awesome, too, and we’re psyched to be staying here for the next 2 weeks. This auberge is really gorgeous, clean and spacious! And while it’s a more pricey accommodation than we would normally stay in on a long climbing trip, it’s seriously hard to move to a campground once you’ve spent a night here!

climbing

We’ve had some somewhat humbling climbing days since we last posted: falling off the top of problems and feeling our lack of Heuco-style fitness. This is what we were expecting actually, but we had a false sense of confidence because of Mig’s strong send on day 2 and my pseudo-send on day 3 (turns out King Cobra starts one move lower than where I started it; what I did is known as “Queen Cobra,” and goes at V5). It’s all good, though. We are getting in shape, slowly but surely. And with our remaining 2 weeks, we hope to go back and finish some of the fun problems we’ve been playing on and maybe get on some harder stuff if we have time! So most of our climbing shots are of other people, but there’s one of me on Jigsaw Puzzle (sent 2nd try) that I did at the East Spur yesterday!

Alex working the moves of ‘Too many martinis’ V14/15. Not too shabby!

Left: Bonnie crushing ‘Jigsaw Puzzle’ V5.
Right: Rocco working ‘Sub-zero’ V11/12.

Video

Here is a quick video of Dom cruising ‘Choir Boys’ (V7) on his first try of the day. He had worked his beta previously. Dom left Hueco today with a very proud tick list, including Fern Roof V9 (see pic below) – way to crush buddy!

More photos…

* click an image for larger size (cliqué sur une image pour la voir en grand format).

Arriving in Hueco Tanks

Driving

10 days on the road so far. We took 5.5 days to get to Hueco Tanks (4000 kms, 7 states, 35 hrs) – casual timing, we know, but shorter days of driving are easier with a baby. Our little girl mostly slept but took in some of the landscape here and there too. The drive included: Visits with friends and good eats in Columbus and Nashville (highlights for sure); Accidental tours of 2 sketch towns in Arkansas (the opposite of a highlight); ‘Whataburger’; ‘Pappy’s BBQ’ in Monahans, Texas (photo below); 80 mph speed limit (in Texas); 22 different state license plates; The alphabet game and similar car-ride pass-the-time activities. What we have learned so far: we have an awesome car and we packed way too much stuff!

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Tour de Bloc 9: Climber’s Rock

Dave Voltan on problem #3

Last weekend’s Tour de Bloc was a lot of fun! It was also full of surprises. First of all, even though the field was super strong, two returning veterans of the Tour de bloc scene (Dave Voltan and Gary Posey) managed to clinch a spot in the finals, while one of my favourites and a regular finalist (Seb Lazure) just missed finals by 8 points. Matt Moreau is a new force in the Tour this year and he showed up and took 3rd place (eking out ahead of Eric Sethna by 2 attempts). In fact, the men’s final ranking was very close – and all about attempts. Fred Charron repeated his amazing performance at the last Tour de Bloc, finishing in 2nd place (1 attempt ahead of Matt). And, in a throw-back to the old days – Rockhead‘s team member and G6 representative Dave Voltan came out on top by finishing 3 final problems in only 4 attempts (one fewer than Fred)! Congrats buddy!

For the ladies, the field was also big (about 40 competitors!), including none other than Thomasina Pidgeon from out west and a whole group of super strong women! Every year the women’s field gets stronger and more impressive! Iyma Lamarche continues to impress on the Tour scene, taking her first win (yep, she beat Thomasina by 7 attempts). Way to go Iyma! Unfortunately, I didn’t get any decent pictures of the women’s finals :( .

Congrats to Voltan and Iyma for their amazing performance at the Climber’s Rock competition! Here are a few photos of the men’s finals!

Fred on problem #2 and #3.

Matt on problem #2.

Eric on problme #4.

Here are the official final results:

Women’s Finals:

  1. Iymma Lamarche (4/6 & 4/6)
  2. Thomasina Pidgeon (4/13 & 4/11)
  3. Kerry Briggs (3/5 & 4/7)
  4. Kacy Wilson (2/2 & 2/2)
  5. Marieta Akalski (2/4 & 3/5)
  6. Su En Neo (1/1 & 3/4)
  7. Amanda Berezowski (1/2 & 3/8)
  8. Kaska Kowalska (0/0 & 3/11)

Men’s Finals:

  1. Dave Voltan (3/4 & 3/4)
  2. Fred Charron (3/5 & 3/4)
  3. Mathew Moreau (3/6 & 4/5)
  4. Eric Sethna (3/6 & 4/7)
  5. Keith Mackay (3/6 & 3/6)
  6. John Bowles (3/8 & 4/12)
  7. Gary Posey (2/7 & 3/8)
  8. Jo Skopec (1/3 & 2/3)

 

A few more pics:

Tour de Bloc 9: Joe Rockhead’s

This past saturday was the first competition of the 9th Tour de Bloc season and the first thing I noticed was how big the women’s field was compared to other years (about 35 open competitors)! I found that to be a real good indicator of the tour’s success and the popularity of bouldering in Canada, which is exciting to witness.

This competition also proved to be interesting because there were so many new faces to the finals! My two favourite competitors to watch on Saturday were Kacy Wilson and Fred Charron. They both put up super impressive performances, gave it their all, and showed that they are real contenders for the number one spot. Also, I particularly enjoyed women’s and men’s 3rd problem, because of their very intricate beta reminiscing of the European-style problems we are used to seeing on the World Cup series (Thank you Tonde!). It’s unfortunate that no one could manage to finish men’s third problem, but great fun nonetheless!

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Tour de Bloc 9: Let the pulling begin!

Tour de bloc 9 begins this weekend at our favorite local gym: Joe Rockhead’s. Today, I was lucky enough to get a preview of the final problems for the comp this weekend. Brace yourselves! It really is looking like this competition will be one of the best we’ve seen out east! It surely will set the tone for the rest of this year’s tour de bloc. Hope you all can make it!!

As I promised many of you, here is a sneak peek of the finals problem:

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